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[Closed] Unbelievable - Most of my diecast rash is gone >>>FYI

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(@Ronald Prospeck)
Joined: 1 second ago
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Unbelievable - Most of my diecast rash is gone >>>FYI

My FM 1954 Chevrolet convertible (red) was purchased with some paint rash on the front fenders, trunk and various areas of the sides. I knew this in advance but wanted this car.
After reading a recent article written by one of our members who said he rubbed out his cars with success, I decided to try and rub it out. Guess what? It work out really great. I used liquid Turtle Wax and rubbed pretty hard and "bingo" most of the rash rubbed out and the car looks 70-80% better. With more work, I'm sure another 10% rash can be removed.;)



   
(@2003ford100)
New Member
Joined: 7 months ago
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HUH??? Yeah!!!!!!! I can't wait to try that on my FM black/silver Maybach.



   
(@Eloy Martinez)
Joined: 1 second ago
Posts: 0
 

Nice to know. I will give it a try. I have some diecasts with paint rash.

I thought to just leave them untouched since I tried Turtle wax, then Novus 2 and no much success. Thanks for letting us know.



   
Richard Dube
(@nickies)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 5806
 

It removes the top coat .................

of the paint the same way as if you would wax an original paint from a 40 years classic car as I do twice a year on my 72 240Z.

The paint is getting thinner. I have done this polishing on red and black DM models with some success but overall it is just a temporary improvement of a serious condition.

I have a DM 49 Mercury Club Coupe as a mule for experiments.



   
(@Ronald Prospeck)
Joined: 1 second ago
Posts: 0
 

That's right - You're mostly removing the top coat of the paint as my rag turned "red" !!!



   
(@Gerry Santiago)
Joined: 1 second ago
Posts: 0
 

You should get the Meguiars Wax kit by GMP specifically for diecast.

I use it on all my diecast and its amazing and has three different liquids for waxing and buffing out scratches and defects.



   
(@Jim Dugan)
Joined: 1 second ago
Posts: 0
 

I think I posted this here before but if not,,,

At one time, I sent my 1:12 scale red 57 Chevy convertible back to DM and Rick Hanmore, Mr. DM himself, Meesta Moe/aka Rick MoeLou.

Anyway, He rubbed out the hood, deck lid and the lower door sections and rear quarter panels of the car with a system called Micro-Mesh. That was five or six years ago at least, and it has never returned. I have my own Micro Mesh system and have used it on quite a few cars over the years with probably a 90% success rate. No kidding, it really works.

Thank you Rick for the tip on Micro-Mesh and the care that both DM and you have always shown me over the years.

Guys, go to Google then Amazon.com Once there, type in Micro-Mesh and you will be off and running. Right around $20 to $25 delivered. Well worth the investment.



   
Geoff Jowett
(@geoff-jowett)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 8389
 

wax thanks Jim sounds like a great recommendation, I'll give it a try



   
(@edmurray)
Active Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 6
 

Where can you buy this? Thanks.



   
(@duncan)
Eminent Member
Joined: 30 years ago
Posts: 18
 

I've used spray wax on my cars for quite some time

Especially when I get used cars that are dirty, etc. The wax I use now is actually a gel, and I really like it because the wax stays where you spray it rather than just wanting to run off. I also use an old soft toothbrush so I can get in all the nooks and crannies (very very carefully, of course, and on the more exotic, detailed models with really small parts I probably wouldn't use this method). I figured if you could use wax on the paint of a 1:1 why couldn't I use it on the paint on the little ones? I also figured if wax helped protect the paint for the future on the 1:1s it should help do the same on the models as well.

I also collect chess sets and use the same method on plastic chess sets (in fact, it was trying wax on them first that gave me the idea for the cars). It cleans and polishes the plastic, deepens the colors and brings back the lustre. And you still have the patina since it is the change in the color of the plastic itself.



   
(@duncan)
Eminent Member
Joined: 30 years ago
Posts: 18
 

Oops, went to edit and ended up with a second post. Sorry.



   
(@Jim Dugan)
Joined: 1 second ago
Posts: 0
 

Good luck Geoff!..................

It's not sand paper so you have to get used to the idea of using pads with different textures to each one of them. Plus the polish that comes with the pads. There are instructions to help you. I think you'll like it. Just give it a chance.

Once again, good luck.



   
(@Jim Dugan)
Joined: 1 second ago
Posts: 0
 

If you'd like to dump the toothbrush...........

Here is the best wax I have ever used on any model car, period. "Brillianize" It's made for cleaning acrylic plastics. It looks and acts just like water so all you do is dampen a small piece of "ultra-suede" with it and go after it. It leaves nothing in the cracks, curves or door jambs and it won't damage the chrome. As a matter of fact, it cleans the he** out of chrome as well. Then after you have polished a small section (such as a rear quarter panel, a door or hood. Something like that), I would say take a clean piece of ultra suede and wipe dry. That's it.

Be sure to do the car in sections because if you don't, the Brillianize will dry and leave water spots just like water. Not to worry though. Should that happen, just hit the area with the damp piece of ultra-suede and polish with the dry piece again. I am not kidding man, over the past fifty years I have used everything from Simonize to Turtle Wax, McGuire's, Mothers, all the stuff. THIS stuff leaves no trace at all. The ultra suede? It's softer than cotton. No scratches. JMO

Almost forgot the most important thing, the shine is killer.



   
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