Door won’t close!
 
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Door won’t close!

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kevins
(@kevins)
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Joined: 1 year ago
Posts: 42
Topic starter  

Doe’s anyone know of a fix for a door that won’t close all the way on a model. I got a smoking deal on a Danbury Mint Corvette concept with the problem. Thanks.

IMG 5955

 


   
Tony Perrone, Mike DeTorrice, 100Ford2003 and 1 people reacted
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Pat7211
(@pat7211)
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If you are going to display it with the door closed and aren't worried about it opening, I've had good luck with a thin strip of two sided tape on the door frame down on the rocker panel. Sticks the bottom of the door to the rocker panel.


   
Allan Ording, John Napoli, Tony Perrone and 2 people reacted
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100Ford2003
(@100ford2003)
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If there isn't  something in the way of fully closing the door, than I've used a tiny bit of velcro to keep things closed. 

It's not permanent, a plus !


   
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BradSmith
(@bradsmith)
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On other models I've had luck with gentle, but firm tugs on the door to pull it away from the hinge which allows the end that swings open to make contact with the door frame which should keep it closed (hope that makes sense). I've never broken a door off using this method, but do it slowly should you try it. If you don't want to do that try gluing a small strip of thin plastic, white or clear, to the door edge so the door will then rub against the door frame which should keep it closed.


   
Allan Ording, John Napoli, 100Ford2003 and 1 people reacted
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Bob Jackman
(@bob-jackman)
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My wife builds miniature dioramas and uses a product called Mini Hold. I have used this on several model cars where the doors won't stay closed. The product is clear and it only takes a very small piece to do the job and it also allows you to open the door if you wish.


   
Allan Ording, 100Ford2003, John Napoli and 1 people reacted
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Christopher Moroni
(@chris)
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Joined: 27 years ago
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I use one of three methods that never fail:

1) Start with a SMALL piece of clear tape placed on the door so that when it closes it creates a snug fit between the door AND the door jam. Start small, you can ALWAYS "build up"  that piece (with additional tape layers) or simply use a larger piece. 

 

2) Instead of tape, a VERY THIN strip of plastic (cheap, used plastic window-blinds are a great source! ) and glue it onto the door to create a sung fit between the door and the jam.  If needed, you can start slightly thicker, thin file down to the desired thickness. The plastic strip can then be painted to match.  Of course, this method WILL FOREVER ALTER THE MODEL and could affect value.

 

3) Use CA glue (Krazy Glue ) on the hinge. Place a SMALL AMOUNT of KG on the hinge, open & close the door repeatedly (to spread the glue ) then close the door and use tape, if needed, to keep the door closed. After a few minutes have pasted, open the door; you'll notice it's a bit harder to open BUT it will now STAY CLOSED when shut.

 

Good luck, keep us posted.


   
Allan Ording, 100Ford2003, Ed Davis and 3 people reacted
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kevins
(@kevins)
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Topic starter  

@chris Many thanks to all of your suggestions, I’ll update when my wife runs out of chores for me! (Hopefully sooner)


   
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Allan Ording
(@67gto)
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Joined: 3 years ago
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I have used poster putty. It is sticky and very pliable (for years) and can be formed into a ball or strip or any shape for that matter. It is not permanent and does no damage. Removes easily too. It's off-white in color. Place a very, very small wad of it on the side or lower door jamb.   For more persistent doors you can try strip caulk by 3M. It's primarily for automotive use. Again very pliable but a little more heavy duty. I've only seen it in black. It is not permanent but harder to remove. I like both of these methods because they are easy and more importantly, not permanent. Plus in my case, I can keep doing it until I get it right. The poster putty works well on sill plates and wipers too in lieu of glue. For a wiper form a very small ball and place it on the windshield molding or cowl with a toothpick. Then gently press the wiper into the putty with the curved end of a paper clip. I can tell you from experience it helps to make a note of the repairs. Good luck.

This post was modified 4 months ago by Allan Ording

   
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kevins
(@kevins)
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Topic starter  

I asked in advance of receiving my model if any of you had a fix for a fault described in the eBay auction. I really do appreciate all of the replies that you guys gave, you were all very generous with your time. The mailman delivered the package an hour ago, and of course I jumped in to examine it. I opened and closed the door several times with a bit of force, as suggested, and it works perfectly! This is, in my opinion, the best deal on a Danbury Mint I’ve ever got, by far. The model was described as having no box or paperwork, no top or side windows, and the door problem. How many of you think that $20 and free ship was a good deal? Thanks again!

IMG 6046

 


   
David Green, Pete Rovero, Allan Ording and 2 people reacted
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Tony Perrone
(@perrone1)
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@kevins 

You bet! $20 including shipping was a steal - congrats!


   
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kevins
(@kevins)
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Topic starter  

@perrone1 Thanks Tony, glad you agree. I didn’t have high hopes for the model, but it’s really clean, and in mint condition. The pic I included was right out of the shipping tissue, no cleaning or polishing. I’ve always held off getting the concept, thinking it would be too much like the production ‘53, but the subtle differences and lack of the side spear make it really stand out! Love it.


   
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Geoff Jowett
(@geoff-jowett)
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what a win! Also you've changed my mind on adding the concept.


   
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kevins
(@kevins)
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Topic starter  

@geoff-jowett I really don’t think you’ll regret getting this one Geoff. The more I study it, the more it becomes one of my favorites.


   
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George Schire
(@georgeschire)
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Joined: 3 years ago
Posts: 4982
 

WOW!  Great suggestions from everyone!  My Danbury Mint '56 Chrysler 300 (red) hardtop has one door that likes to "hang" a little.  You guys have provided some possible great solutions.  THANKS ALL!  

George Schire
Oakdale, Minnesota


   
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