Paint Issues - Minor Rash/ Scratch repair - Franklin Mint, Danbury Mint or other diecast cars.

Great subject and an excellent set of tips. Those areas, as you've already noted, that are so small as to be hard to see with the naked eye, are not too troubling.

Most any slight abrasive may be the initial treatment, from toothpaste up to a more aggressive compound.

I have used Flitz polish judiciously followed by Ren Wax, and in most of the less offensive cases, have had great success. Anything more exuberant will remove far too much paint unless a full restoration is within someone's abilities.

procedures such as these become more "do-able" each time you practice them....IME,it`s unlikely that a first,or even third attempt will yield a result less unsightly than the original blemish............take a few cars you can spare to lose, and practice the entire procedure on these test dummies before risking your cherished specimen.......and make sure to place your finished test project car under the same light as where you intend to display it.....sun,incandescent,fluorescent,led - they all give different readings to a glossy painted surface

@greatmachines sounds sophisticated but it is too complicated. Here is what I do and works as a charm, it is relatively safe and it is extremely efficient (no wet sanding). The same process also works for removal of superglue spots but that task require more skills:

Buy micro-mesh sticks (I prefer sticks for small areas) or pads on Amazon. Start with 6000 for fine rash (you can start with 4000 for moderate rash), when you see the rash leveling with the surrounding paint move to 8000 and finally 1200, then polish with your favorite polish. Test on less valuable car first. Protect the surrounding chrome parts with masking tape (Tamiya tape is the best). Avoid the edges of panels as the paint is thinner and the edges will receive more pressure from the stick. When the stick saturates with paint, its performance decreases, so you can cut the part that is not usable and sand with a fresh tip.

Thanks for all the great submissions!  More are still welcome.  I just ordered the Micromesh pads and sticks and need to find a suitable test car.  I will try both techniques and supplies (I have the compound and waxed)  and will post before and after repair attempt pictures 

Posted by: @greatmachines

Thanks for all the great submissions!  More are still welcome.  I just ordered the Micromesh pads and sticks and need to find a suitable test car.  I will try both techniques and supplies (I have the compound and waxed)  and will post before and after repair attempt pictures 

GOOD man !!!.....the pads and sticks are waterproof and using them under a trickle of water will give you the smoothest results

@greatmachines Here is an example of masking the chromed parts with tape. It is really important step to avoid damage and most importantly - remorse of being lazy (it is a bad feeling).

@greatmachines One more tip: when the polish gets into the gaps, blow it out with compressed air before it dries out and then wipe it out. I found this is the easiest way to clean the gaps and I do it routinely after each polishing job.

Look at this professionally polished model, they forgot to clean the polishing compound in the door gaps, how unprofessional?  Now I have to use a toothpick or a needle to scrape it out ... 

 Chav you can use a toothbrush to clean the door jambs. I use Meguiar's Final Inspection when brushing alone won't work. Spray sparingly on the toothbrush and insert the tip into the jamb. Then brush up and down. The Meguiar's loosens or softens the crusty wax or polish. Wipe with a 1 1/2 inch square of cloth, preferably 100% cotton. Thanks to all for the rash removal tips.

@67gto Didn't know about Meguiar's Final Inspection, will try it, thanks. I prefer microfiber cloth over cotton cloth. Not sure what the microfiber cloths are made from, but I believe they work best. I also polish with them. You can see one on the Alfa picture above, just behind the model.

@chav Microfiber is fine too but the cotton, from a tee shirt for instance, is usually thinner and easier to clean/dry the jamb and door edges.

@67gto I mean microfiber cloth like for cleaning glasses and the cloths included with the CMC models, they are quite thin

This is really great contribution of knowledge.

Maybe a new topic but:

How many levels of paint issues would their be?

1. Very light haze hardly detectable to the eye (magnifying glass might be needed)

2.? 3.?....8.? 
9. Bubbles seen in real bad paint examples in picture (below black)

10. Underneath Zinc rot in picture (green)

@chav I was quite thin too until about a year ago 😏