[Closed] Remark about Motorcity Models

I am one of those who has benefitted from Brooklin's willingness to send parts to replace those missing from their models, but in fairness to
Motor City, I needed parts for a Hudson Hollywood Hardtop and I emailed
Alan Novak to see if he could help me out. A few days later I had an email
from Alan and soon afterward received a complete set of fender ornaments
(the parts I was missing) as well as emblems, mirrors, etc., for the Hudson.
Alan paid the postage and charged me nothing.

I know that others requested assistance and didn't get it, but my experience
in requesting spare parts for my MOC car was a positive one. Of course, they
were still in business then. I wouldn't expect to be able to obtain spare parts
from any company which is no longer in business.

If you want to talk about negative experiences, try to get a spare part for a
1:24 model from either of the Mints. Not a chance, even if the car is still in
production. I have never had a problem in obtaining a spare part for a
Brooklin, and have had similar excellent service from Illustra and from Buz
Kirkel at Route 66 on the rare occasions when I've needed it.

Finally, the comment about "knowing disturbing things about Motor City" but
keeping them to one's self serves no purpose but to malign a company no
longer in business, but which produced beautiful and highly-sought-after
models while they were. Why insinuate a negative situation if you don't wish
to explain it? And since it doesn't matter now, why bring it up?

Rick, regarding your last passage I totally agree with your comments.

Gregg, I doubt if any product containing lead is allowed to be used today.

I don't know exactly what Brooklin uses but I managed to find this information
regarding pewter.

"Pewter is a tin-base white metal containing antimony and copper. Originally,
pewter was defined as an alloy of tin and lead, but to avoid toxicity and
dullness of finish, lead is excluded from modern pewter. These modem
compositions contain 1 to 8% antimony and 0.25 to 3.0% copper."

Source: http://www.keytometals.com/Article26.htm

BTW lead used in paint has been forbidden by British law since the mid '60's.

Cheers Chris

RE;Lead

Thankyou for being such a great expert.I probably shouldn,t have said anything as usual.God Bless

Greg sometimes lead does enter the toy chain .....

remember Mattel's problems a couple of years ago with their CARS related
releases. Inadvertently the paint that was used contained lead and many
thousands of toy cars were recalled.

Cheers Chris

I am far from being a great expert Greg but ......

I am nevertheless flattered!

Now Greg with your modelling skills you have certainly made a significant
impact in the world of 43rd scale cars.

Cheers Chris

And continues to do so.Much more so then those of us who just run our mouths. I mean me of course !!

These days white metal ingots come in tin-lead alloy combination and also in lead free to comply with the regulations. Back in the day, some model companies would use the less expensive higher lead/cadmium content metal to cast with. If you cast alot with white metal it can make you feel sleepy and loopy.

Lead usage

Here is an interesting article that summarizes the status of lead in solders:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder
Take a look at the incredible long list of solders, most of which have a high lead
content, at the end of this article. It sounds like the EU is ahead of the US in
trying to reduce the use of heavy metals. However, I'd be surprised if white
metal models are made from ingots that don't contain lead. I think the tin/lead
combination produces a very nice combination of physical properties, such as a
low tendency to form cracks upon cooling.

Does the lead free stuff crack on cooling? I have only used the tin/lead combo but was thinking about trying the lead free. Is there something wrong with it, Mr. Nosker? Have you tried it? I have not exerienced cracking, but have had some bad castings from time to time when I was re-using the metal too much or it was contaminated or wrong temperature.

Thanks for the heads up on the lead free. I have been casting for many years with the 60/40 ( don't like - nasty) and my favorite is the 70/30- tin/lead. but as I mentioned, if a person does it alot for hours and hours on end it can make you feel sleepy and loopy. I don't know if it's fumes or heat or a combination of both. I much prefer the metal over the resin because for my needs it's less expensive and less trouble to do in metal on some projects. But I have moved over mostly to resin casting in the last third of my career because it seems more healthy and convenient in some ways. I was going to go out and get the lead free white metal to try but now I will not buy alot. I will only try a little to make sure it works or not. So maybe you saved me some money and heart break and confusion, trial and error.
Best wishes to Mr. Nosker. This is a great forum.