Resin Models integrity of build

Those small parts do fall off and are easily lost.  Here's a product I have found in my 1/43 kit building projects that helps:

  In building model cars, I have grown to like these fast-acting glues, not for every part but for attaching those little bits.  The problems is that these glues, once opened, seem to have a short life.  It seems the shorter the drying time, the shorter the shelf life.  But this package of five mini-tubes works just fine for me, with less waste that I have found.  The glue is fast drying so that I can hold a piece into position, even an awkward placement, for long enough (perhaps a minute or two) for it to dry.  It usually needs to dry longer to better insure permanence, but that initial minute or two means no clumsy clamping is necessary.  Be warned that only a few seconds of adjustment time is available or permanent damage can result.  Experiment on some worthless items!   When it comes to gluing larger parts together that easily clamp, I still prefer the older white glue and overnight drying with clamps.  

  I enjoy these 1/43 models as construction kits.  And, yes, I build models of all sorts of materials.  I like the variety!

All of my resin models collected over the last few years, including those with PE, have held onto their parts. But don't un-plinth them.

I enjoy the “charm” , weight and feel of those early Brooklins

and to a somewhat lesser degree the Franklin Mint models

the resin certainly can be more detailed and as result may be more delicate

bottom line is what appeals to you and how it displays.  

I used to be a white metal collector exclusively until resin came along. As has been said the feel of the weight of white metal is a plus but the detail of resin is also a plus. For me it gets down to the subject matter so the material is of secondary importance. Years ago I could never have imagined the 1/43 market being as vast as it is today and I love every minute of it.

Re: David H's comment, super glue can fog chrome and windows, you will never get it off. So take care where you use it.

Re: White metal vs. resin 1) I have both, and 2) no one ever seems to mention diecast (zamac) anymore, but these models have their place too. I cannot imagine white metal being used for the likes of these:

HPI and Kyosho made some of the best zamak models ever, wish they would return:

No more metal models for me. In my new spree of collecting, accuracy and details are more important. This is because I mostly collected 1/24 scale before and we have been spoiled by DM and FM. 

@mark-lampariello I remove them from the plinth to display. I rarely have an issue with PE parts. If it happens, I use clear nail polish to fix. I also have Testors Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker that is thicker but also works fine.

@nickies 

Thanks for recommendations about what to use for re-attaching parts.

Thanks nickies. Good ides there. I’m hesitant to use superglue.

@nickies Thanks for the tips. Never thought of clear nail polish.