Best glue you gents suggest.

I’ve had good results with this, the trick is to use a very small amount and not use near your clear plastic parts, it could attack and turn them milky.

Posted by: @kevins

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I’ve had good results with this, the trick is to use a very small amount and not use near your clear plastic parts, it could attack and turn them milky.

Super glue is best but not the safest, there is a learning curve with superglue and needs steady hands. Mistakes are unforgiven. If the mirrors have popped clearly and intact with their mounting stems the safest glue I've heard is Elmer's type glue. I personally use superglue and UV resin but they require experience.

Chav is spot on.   I fabricate and modify diecast cars so often that I purchase CA glue (Krazy glue ) in gross quantities.  Tricks to preserving Krazy glue are to keep the tip clean and the secure the tube in an airtight container.

I've used Krazy glue for all of my custom builds and modification work, but a rock steady hand is required and, as Chav noted, it's unforgiving.  Even the smallest amount that makes unintended contact with anything clear or a painted surface will be disastrous. 

For those that do not trust their hands or become nervous when handing delicate & tiny parts, I suggest the safest, but among the strongest, glues around:  "Canopy Glue." 

It will glue anything, can be cleaned up with water, dries crystal clear, will not harm clear parts, and can be scrapped away with a toothpick should you need to remove any unwanted areas.    Also, it can be purchased at many hobby & craft stores for less than $5

Good luck and don't be nervous!  😀 😀 😀 

Thank you gents, to play it safe I am going with the canopy glue suggestion...

I generally use super glue gel on a toothpick to reattach small parts, I do use this also. It works very well.😊

1. I use Gorilla Glue gel, not the liquid glue which dries too quickly. The gel allows more time to position the parts and usually sets within a minute.  

@pete-rovero I agree Pete,  I like that its not runny and gets all over your parts. Much easier to work with.😊

My favorite is E6000. 

Benefits:

It is a viscous clear gel that will hold small parts in place for you.

It gives you plenty of time to reposition parts.

If it gets someplace you don't want it, you can roll it off with your fingers like rubber cement before it dries.

If you can't roll it off with your fingers, a little bit of Goo-Gone will clean it right up if it has not set completely.

I will not fog clear parts.

Very permanent when it is fully dry.

It is readily available at many stores and online.

I have never had it ruin a plated or painted surface.

Drawbacks:

As with many adhesives, it will probably go bad before you use the whole tube. But you can buy large tubes or small tubes. I prefer the small tubes. 

It will not flow around parts via capillary action like a liquid (too thick), but I've always been able to use it anyway.

I hope that helps!

@geno 

I was at a slot car track a few years ago and had some braid lifting on the lane I was using. The counter guy gave me a small pack of superglue to reattach it. When opened it sprang a leak and within seconds three of my fingers were bonded together.  It took 20 minutes to get them apart using white gas and lighter fluid.  Not a fan of the liquid glue!

some great info here gents thank you (excluding your stuck together fingers of course Pete!) Gorilla glue gel is available from the local hardware store and E6000 available online locally! 

@daveg Thanks Dave, I'm gonna have to check that out.😊

I started using canopy glue on Chris's recommendation.  Clean up is so easy and I usually make some kind if mess when reattaching pieces.