Repairing 1/24 DM 1965? Corvette coupe early prototype, project #3

Remarkable work there Chav. Fascinating stuff. Looking forward to the next episode.

Posted by: @chav

Further research showed that the only way of removing the chrome chemically is with reverse electroplating.

Chav, your dedication to this prototype project is truly inspiring!  It looks GREAT! 😎 😎

But here's a tip ...  when stripping paint or chrome from plastic parts ALWAYS use automotive brake fluid.  Let the parts soak for a few days, then use a toothbrush. Repeat if necessary. Wash up using soap & water. 

YOUR PASTIC parts will NEVER be harmed IN ANY way; the ONLY THING brake fluid does is remove the finish (paint and/or chrome).  I've been doing this for over 40 years. In fact, I last used this method about 2 weeks ago to remove blue & black paint on my 1913 Speedster rims.... I then re-painted them red w/black accents.

Also, here's a few semi-wheel pics from my C.O.E. hauler project. After the red & green paint was stripped, I buffed the black plastic, for a semi-gloss look (without paint! )

@chris Great results with the brake fluid Chris! I believe you and will try it. It can help me dechroming a fuel cap, which won't work mechanically in this case. However I am skeptical as with electroplating there is quite thick layer of metal, first copper and then chrome. 

Doug also talks about the DM chrome in this video (BWT great video for DM Penske corvette conversion), I may ask him too, I another video he is using bleach to dechrome kits parts.

Posted by: @chav

However I am skeptical as with electroplating there is quite thick layer of metal, first copper and then chrome. 

-Yes, I knew this would come up. I've had ZERO issues stripping "regular chrome plating"  from plastic parts and I'm 99% sure that I've successfully stripped "electroplating chrome"  too.  As you might imagine, I RARELY need to strip such "luscious"  chrome.

- What do you have to lose?  If the electroplate chrome on your fuel cap doesn't appear to be breaking down after soaking for a few days in brake fluid, you're no worse for the experience. 

- I have NEVER tried using bleach as a paint stripper.

- I do know that many plastic model builders have successfully stripped paint by letting parts soak in store bought oven cleaners.

GOOD LUCK, post pics!

(..cool video  😎)  

@chris I will try, I am just skeptical, that's it. I have tried so far everything else you mentioned. If it doesn't work will send you a piece for you to try, a have hundreds of DM/FM parts from broken cars ... will let you know ...

Ok, regarding the glue spots, there were 2 of them on the windshield. First I taped the wipers pulling them away from the windshield.

One spot (Spot1) was thick and raised, one was superficial but long and extending from the windshield over its frame and on the paint behind the wiper (Spot2). Spot1 was first trimmed down with exacto knife parallel to the window, that was a dangerous operation as scratches from the exacto knife would not be easily reparable. The glue on the paint was also scraped very gently with exacto knife (this is not recommended, it is very unpredictable), and then polished with rubbing compound and Tamiya detail tips.

Then Spot1 and Spot2 were sanded with micromesh (sanding sticks), you can find them on Amazon. Started with 3000-3200 and used until the spots we almost completely gone, then moved to 4000, 5000 etc. and ended with 12000. The glue spots are still visible on the first image below, and removed on the second image. Even after 12000, the windshield will look hazy. The sticks have to be completely clean, other wise the can make deeper scratches, so I blow them with duster before using them. One has to be very careful not to scratch other details with the sticks. Removing glue spots from paint is similar but would start with 5000 and go up, the paint layer has limited thickness, so deeper scratches are not necessary. If you ever do this and its your first time, practice first on a parts car, you need bravery and bravery comes with experience.

On the frame I used dental polishing rubber bits, but used them manually.

Finally polished with polishing compound (there compounds specifically for plastics, but I use regular one paint and works just fine.

Once the windshield was done, I covered it with tape and glued the driver side wiper with a tiny bit of superglue. Then applied a thin layer of Tamiya (practically acetone) plastic glue to smooth and "polish" the joint.

And the final result:

that outcome is extraordinary Chav, thanks for the detailed explanation and pics. Skill and patience abounds! 

Outstanding post & pics Chav! Nicely done! Your prototype never looked better. 

Posted by: @chris

Outstanding post & pics Chav! Nicely done! Your prototype never looked better. 

Thanks, my 15-year old Nikon SLR and macro lens certainly help present it better than the quick iPhone pics.

Great work Chaz, always nice to see someone restoring a classic. Back in the day, a lot of guys thought adding a taillight to their stingray was the ultimate cool thing to do. Keep up the good work friend!

Posted by: @chris

↑

Posted by: @chav

However I am skeptical as with electroplating there is quite thick layer of metal, first copper and then chrome. 

-Yes, I knew this would come up. I've had ZERO issues stripping "regular chrome plating"  from plastic parts and I'm 99% sure that I've successfully stripped "electroplating chrome"  too.  As you might imagine, I RARELY need to strip such "luscious"  chrome.

- What do you have to lose?  If the electroplate chrome on your fuel cap doesn't appear to be breaking down after soaking for a few days in brake fluid, you're no worse for the experience. 

- I have NEVER tried using bleach as a paint stripper.

- I do know that many plastic model builders have successfully stripped paint by letting parts soak in store bought oven cleaners.

GOOD LUCK, post pics!

(..cool video  😎)  

Chris, unfortunately no luck, after one week in the brake fluid ... no change

this is a bumper from a FM model

I heartily applaud your efforts Chav! It would be, no doubt, easier to replace the black plastic items with chromed parts from another like 65 or 66 model and make it look fresh and new. What a giant mistake that would be. The black plastic wheels, bumpers, mirrors, door handles, etc., depict it as a much, much rarer development buck and heightens its lesser-seen intrinsic value. No wonder it is one of your favorites. Lead on sir!

@perrone1 Thanks Tony, this is an old thread, I revived it to give Chris feedback on the brake fluid vs chrome fight. FM chrome is winning so far. This bumper is for another development prototype that I acquired recently. Since this new part is much more complex than the Vette bumper, mechanical removal of the chrome is a herculean effort wih questionable result. So, I am researching dechroming solutions, the better tools cost in the range of $120, and I can use the same tool for gold platting too.

BTW, the blue/black scheme of the Vette is a modern design per se. Another reason why this model resonates the way it is.

@chav