The Diecast Zone · Model Car Club Since 1997
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Engineer Ferdinand Porsche was much in demand by the automotive industry since his early successes with Austro-Daimler. In 1924, he took over as Chief Engineer and Designer at Daimler Mercedes to prepare a car for that season. He took the 1923 Indy 500 car and redesigned it. He reworked the 2.0 liter DOHC 4 cylinder, supercharged it and filled the exhaust valves with Mercury(?) to ameliorate heat build up. The resultant engine produced 126 HP and allowed for speeds up to 76 mph. Painted Italian Racing Red so the locals wouldn't throw rocks at it, it was a winner at Targa Florio and went on to success in other venues with newly hired Alfred Neubauer as head of the factory race team. Over the years, this car was lost to history but its sister car that finished 9th in that race was fully restored by Mercedes and has a prime spot in their museum display. The model is by CMC:
What a great-looking and incredibly detailed replica of this automobile. The wheels alone are worth the price of admission on this remarkable model ! Lot's to look at on this one, that's for sure.
I don't even post pics of mine anymore - how could I possibly compete with your quality efforts! 😬 😬
But, speaking of wheels.... I'm a bit miffed at myself for NOT putting a dap of grease on those knock-off hubs years ago. All 4 NOW seem "frozen," I'm too afraid to force them. So.... I can no longer remove those great looking wheels.
..... less finger fun is never good. 😔 😔 😔
@chris -
I would try this. As we know, heat causes expansion, and cold causes contraction. You need the knock-off to be smaller than the wheel hub.
Freeze a blunt piece of metal. Place the model in a warm environment, like direct sunlight, for a few minutes. You can cover the model so that only the wheels are exposed. Place the frozen metal directly on the knock-off. The cold from the pick might cause enough contraction that you'll be able to easily twist off the knock-offs. The worst that can happen is "nothing."
Oh! I almost forgot. Just remember that race cars frequently have hubs that tighten with motion. The right-side knock-offs might come off turning clockwise. I've seen some high-end models (Exoto, for sure) that incorporate this feature, maintaining the authenticity with the 1:1.
The right-side knock-offs might come off turning clockwise. I've seen some high-end models (Exoto, for sure) that incorporate this feature
- I have considered heat & cold, even ultra small squirts of PB-Blaster or Liquid Wrench. But again, I'm too afraid of hash chemicals or extreme temps. 😬 😬
- I don't recall this particular CMC having reverse threads, but I'll check the literature. I experienced those on my 1:1 1957 Dodge - I wasn't amused! 😠 😠
Thanks for the input Marty! I'm NOT the sharpest knife in the drawer - I need ALL the help I can get! 😖 😖

