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*** UPDATE *** ( PI...
 
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[Closed] *** UPDATE *** ( PIX ) '63 Black Corvette Project Modifcation

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(@Dennis Mong)
Joined: 1 second ago
Posts: 0
 

UPDATE ( PIX ) '63 Black Corvette Project Modifcation OK * This pic is day one of starting the tear down process ... about 2 hours ... taking my time

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OK

Below - This pic is where we remove the interior

... and you can see ... only remove 1 tiny itty bitty screw

Once screw is removed ... lift the rear of the interior up gently and be sure to remove the master brake booster off the "firewall" of the interior

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OK Below we see the interior removed from the frame

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OK Below the interior set aside on the kitchen table top

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OK Below we see 4 screws

The 2 outside screws in single red circle are for door removal

The 2 screws with double red circles are dashboard removal

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OK Below we see our results

Body off the frame

Doors removed

Interior removed

Dashboard removed

And all those pesky tiny lil screws w/ washers

NOTE: I found that "most" of the screws are extremely tight ... be sure to use the proper size + Philips screw driver to avoid stripping

... VERY slowly lossen the screws, they will break free but take your very sweet time,

Do NOT get a big hurry ... take your time

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DOOR PANEL REMOVAL

OMG

What a pain in the keester!

This takes "ALOT" of patience and due diligence

AND

In a peaceful surroundings ... no 3 yr or 5yr old lil girls screaming, hollering and running around like banshees ( LOL )

One does not want to break a door panel in half

Using a very small olfa blade knife ... work the edges to break free the outer edge of the door panel

Then using a little bit bigger common screwdriver, very carefully digger deeper

The door has 2 posts that stick up

The door panel has 2 circles the door posts snap into (glued )

It is frustrating ... it is tedious ... you'll want to quit and walk away ... but it can & will come free

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OK Below you can see the posts that I mention on the door itself

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OK

Below ... door panel removal ...

You can see the inside of the door panel and the "sockets" that I was talking about

... those sockets snap over the lil posts located inside of the door

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* WHEW *

Took me about an hour to perform the above tasks

After all that tedious work ... I'm toast and I am done for the day

And yes ... I do have a 3yr old and a 5yr old "GREAT GRAND Daughters" running around like banshees ... I was not joking about that

So what's next ?

I have to locate matching paint of the interior

I have to locate matching paint of the exterior black Corvette

Any and all input is greatly wanted / appreciated.

I can't believe I'm doing this

OH ...

I have every little part in lil tiny plastic snag bags

Body in 1 bag

Each door in their own bag

Wheels, spinner knock off rims, and all screw in one bag

Interior, door panels, steering wheel with all related screws / washers in one bag

Frame / motor in one bag

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You get the idea

Hey

This is work in progress

So far so good

Now that I have traveled down an unknown path ...:O

Its not that hard ... Grin

So Far :))

I hope I land on my feet with a 10 point landing:))



   
Dan Duma
(@dan-duma)
Reputable Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 293
 

Dennis, You're Cooking with Gas! Don't stop now.

I see you have good set of tools. Have you run into a screw that won't budge? Find a product called "Tri-Flow" Superior Lubricant. It really works great. Hardware store or locksmiths usually carry it. Also I recommend putting the screws right back in the same hole you removed it from when you are done taking it apart.
They look the same but are NOT! Plus it will help when putting it all back together. GOOD LUCK



   
(@Dennis Mong)
Joined: 1 second ago
Posts: 0
 

Thank you Dan .... I have

Known of you for many many years and have great respect for you

Thank you for your encouraging words

AND

I did exactly what you said ... I put the screws right back into the body from where they came out

The screws that hold the wheels / rims ... I put those screws in the wheel / rim bag

OH ... Thanks for the tip on the spray lube ... there was one or 2 that I thought would not budge

Thanks for the tip

I figure I'm safe with that



   
Rick Scoville
(@topgun1954)
Famed Member
Joined: 30 years ago
Posts: 2596
 

Dennis, great blow-by-blow description/pics. Feel like we're right there with 'ya.

Keep 'em coming. Can't wait to see the final result.



   
 Bob
(@bob)
Estimable Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 160
 

Inspirational

Great photos and excellent Write up Dennis. Keep up the great work and I look forward to more coverage of your "Work In Progress"



   
George Bojaciuk
(@george-bojaciuk)
Noble Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 2314
 


   
Geoff Jowett
(@geoff-jowett)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 8652
 

good stuff Dennis, well done!



   
(@Dennis Mong)
Joined: 1 second ago
Posts: 0
 

George - You crack me up ... U R "He Larry Us" !!!



   
Frank Kocour
(@kocour)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 16123
 

What they all said. Makes me want to try it. . . . Naw.



   
(@Ron Dietrich)
Joined: 1 second ago
Posts: 0
 

I usually use a jar for dissembled parts but sometimes they're just all over....Good job!



   
(@Randall Carlisle)
Joined: 1 second ago
Posts: 0
 

screws in diecasts

I, too, have fought the screws in a diecast. Just occurred to me... has anyone tried a JIS (japanese Industry Standard - google it if you want) screwdriver in these heads?

JIS looks a lot like a phillips, but has a different cut to it. Prime example is Japanese motorcycles, especially carb float bowls. Easy to strip heads out with even a high dollar regular phillips, but use the cheap crap driver in the bike toolkit and it will usually come right out.

And of course, I don't have access to a JIS driver since I sold the m/c. Usually a JIS screw will have a dot on the head but I've never seen a dot on these.



   
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