[Closed] A question for modelers. What type of body fillers do you use on metal diecast models

I use J B Weld or generic equivilant or you can fill the gaps with repeated applications of "scratch filler" rattle can primer.

Yes, JB Weld or Chemical Metal

Don't know if Chemical Metal (sometimes also sold as "Mend Metal For Good") is sold under that name in the U.S., but it is basically a 2-part polyester car body filler. You can't apply a smooth coat, it is too "sticky", so you pile on a good excess wodge of the stuff then sand it to shape when dry. Very strong when set, and adheres very well to metal, plastic or resin - to the point where I have sometimes used it as a combined adhesive and gap-filler instead of 2-part epoxy adhesive. Once hard it can be quite fiercely ground down, filed or sanded with no fear of it breaking up or detaching.

That means it is also useful for re-shaping part of a model (e.g. of the hood/trunk line or the roofline of a car doesn't seem quite high enough you can spread on a layer where it's needed and file/sand to shape.)

It can also be scribed or sawn (for example if you want to cut new body shut-lines or trim lines).

I have also used Milliput 2-part putty in the past. Quite successful if applied in thick layers but if you try to apply smaller pieces of the putty (for example, if you wanted to add extension lips to wheel arches on a rally car by rolling out little "sausages" of putty and sticking them on) the amount of pressure needed to make them adhere properly to the bodywork can distort the shape you are trying to make. It is also more prone to crack or break off if filed or sanded too roughly. So I'm not too keen on Milliput for that sort of delicate filling job.

For "fine-tuning" these modified details,because JB Weld or Chemical Metal are difficult to apply in fine layers, I use "knifing putty" (or "stopping putty"). That is what car paint shops use to fill small scratches or dings prior to priming and painting. It goes on as a fine, smooth coat and can be sanded to a very fine finish.

But a word of warning. First, it should ONLY be used as a fine smoothing coat. If you are tempted to apply it more thickly to adjust a body contour, it may take weeks or months to dry through, and as the solvents slowly leak out they build up pressure under the paint finish and may produce a crazing effect. And secondly, it is cellulose-based, so if you aren't happy with the paint job on your model and decide to use paint stripper or cellulose thinners before re-spraying, all that smoothing work with the stopping putty will dissolve away with the paint!

To avoid that risk, it may be better to follow John Q's advice and do the surface finishing with several good layers of thick spray primer, which can then be polished down with fine "wet and dry" paper and plenty of water.

(Sorry. Are you falling asleep there? Well, serves you right for asking).

Door lines

A suggestion given to me was to use the 'super glue' that hardens with a ultra-violet light in the kit.

Excellent tutorial, Graeme

I use JB-Kwick or Squadron White fast dry putty.

I've always used Isopon P38. Works for me.

Yup. I thinks its exactly the same stuff as "Chemical Metal"