Detailing 1:43 FM Duesenberg

If you poke around on this site you may find some photo etch wipers available.   Lots of items shown here for 43rd scale modeling work.

https://www.deroosautominiaturen.com/part43.htm

nicely done. Lots of work but a great improvement Chav.

Posted by: @john-quilter

If you poke around on this site you may find some photo etch wipers available.   Lots of items shown here for 43rd scale modeling work.

https://www.deroosautominiaturen.com/part43.htm

Really nice stuff, are they reliable? Way of ordering is ancient ...

Nice work. I love that you took the time to take photos and share them with us. Thanks.

Posted by: @chav

Posted by: @john-quilter

If you poke around on this site you may find some photo etch wipers available.   Lots of items shown here for 43rd scale modeling work.

https://www.deroosautominiaturen.com/part43.htm

Really nice stuff, are they reliable? Way of ordering is ancient ...

I don't believe I have ever actually ordered from them.

Ended up making my own wipers

Added hood hinge, first painted with Molotow liquid chrome, but then I figured out I can just polish out the paint as the hinge was simulated by a ridge across the midline.

Finally touched up the hubcaps with red paint ... and washout to the radiator

FM got the proportions and stance right, the model is now good for display.

Chav, you have given the term "detailing" new meaning.  Great!  Your use of the eye of a needle for a door handle is worthy of remembering and even attempting.  And I like your wipers, too.   Many thanks for your fine photography and a special post.  Well done!

Chav,  More details on how you did those great wipers, please.

Posted by: @john-quilter

Chav,  More details on how you did those great wipers, please.

John,

I used beading needles from Michaels for material, it is sturdy steel wire that still bends (I bought them some time ago to experiment with spokes for 1:24 wheels). All tools I used are pictured above. My new favorite glue (for the last year) is UV resin. Basically after cutting and bending the 2 pieces for each wiper, I attached the small piece with a tiny drop of resin (the resin is liquid but solidifies immediately when "zapped" with UV light, if it stays for a while without being exposed to UVL becomes tacky and eventually would harden even without UVL). Once the two pieces are loosely attached, I would adjust their position until I get them in the right angle, and drop a bit of resin in the juncture between the two. Now since these wipers were tiny, the resin drop may be to big, so I would clear the excess with with some small piece of wire or a swab. Once satisfied with the position and the amount of resin, then zap it again and it is done. The resin dries completely clear. The drill was used to make small holes in the windshield frame to ensure accurate positioning, the wipers were again glued in place with a micro drop of UV resin, then adjusted and zapped. Hope that helps.

Chav: Thanks for the tip on UV resin. I had heard about it, but never considered  using it on small model parts. I will definitely search for some. Your work on the Duesenberg takes this model to a new level. It matches any high end Duesenberg model. Fantastic job on the wipers, they look perfectly to scale. Keep up the mods and thanks for sharing.

Posted by: @kenspear

Chav: Thanks for the tip on UV resin. I had heard about it, but never considered  using it on small model parts. I will definitely search for some. Your work on the Duesenberg takes this model to a new level. It matches any high end Duesenberg model. Fantastic job on the wipers, they look perfectly to scale. Keep up the mods and thanks for sharing.

It is great stuff, dentists use it for many years. I had best success with the brand shown above, which I luckily find in the local hardware store. I also use it to make lenses and fill gaps. It is liquid, so it self levels for gaps. I use it also to attach tiny scrips on larger models as it dries clear and allows some wiggle time compared to cyanoacrylate.

@kenspear 

Filling gaps. The gap between the two cut pieces of the transparent window part was filled with UV resin that self-leveled and then painted.