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03/12/2017 12:31 pm
From its origins about 35 years ago, a just-completed Mikansue Triumph Mayflower. (pics)
Here's how it started:
photo no longer available
Which eventually became:
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and, finally, let the party begin:
photo no longer available
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And the proud owners are inside (and very hard to photograph): photo no longer available
The Triumph Mayflower is a British four-seat 1 1⁄4 litre small luxury car noted for its razor-edge styling. It was built by the Standard Motor Company and sold by Standard's subsidiary, The Triumph Motor Company. It was announced at the October 1949 British International Motor Show, but deliveries did not commence until the middle of 1950. The Mayflower was manufactured from 1949 until 1953. Sales did not meet company expectations.
photo no longer available
Some may have noticed the figures are a little different. These just arrived from England; they were made of white metal by A.B.S. Models in 1:43 scale. (The dog is an old timer who just can't resist sniffing out a new possibility.) photo no longer available
PS- I have had a lot of fun the last few weeks working with this older white metal model, and it could still have a few small changes. I'm trying to learn two-toning techniques, and I'm also thinking of swapping these black tires for white walls. Eventually, maybe . . .
03/12/2017 1:53 pm
What a great car! Thanks for the photos and story (and lil' people)!
03/12/2017 3:03 pm
David, a little charmer! I like the colour scheme you chose. With these latest figures, this photo looks very 1950'ish.
I understand, although I have not tried it, that bare metal foil can be used to mask paintwork and that because of its clinginess and fineness, it enables curves to be masked very precisely whereas masking tape sometimes allows paint to bleed a little. I wonder if other model building experts on this Forum would share their expertise on this subject?
03/12/2017 3:11 pm
Have always used BM to mask for eons best you can get.
03/12/2017 4:08 pm
I've used clear Scotch tape on occasion as it seems to be thinner than masking tape and less absorbent.
John F. Quilter
Eugene, Oregon USA
03/12/2017 4:13 pm
And Speaking of Mikansue kits I am about to begin a 1940 LaSalle
Series 52 sedan in their Americana series.
John F. Quilter
Eugene, Oregon USA
03/12/2017 5:49 pm
John, I look forward to your results. I have built a few of these Mikansue models and like them.
04/12/2017 7:05 am
BMF is great for masking complicated break lines or for small irregular areas.
Not only is it much more pliable than masking tape for working into tight corners using a toothpick or cocktail stick, but you can get an even neater result by applying one or more pieces of BMF roughly straddling the line to be masked then trimming very precisely to the line you want using a craft blade (with very light pressure so as not to score the first colour). Gently lift away the unwanted areas of foil with tweezers, then burnish the foil along the edge of the masking line with a cocktail stick, a cotton bud or even your finger, stroking towards the cut edge of the foil rather than away from it, so as not to lift the edge.
Having used relatively expensive BMF to mask the immediate break line between the two colours, the rest of the model can be masked with cheap masking tape, overlapping it firmly on to the BMF, before spraying.
When spraying, try to direct the spray away from the edge of the masking line as much as possible, rather than directly towards it, to minimise the risk of the spray forcing its way under the foil line.
I see John Quilter suggesting Scotch tape (which we call Sellotape in the UK). Maybe he has managed to make that work but I find normal adhesive tape quite inflexible, and too "grabby", and it adheres quite strongly so personally I would be afraid of it pulling off paint - unless there is a low-tack variety sold in the U.S.?
Graeme.M. Ogg
London U.K.