MERCURY PARK LANE 1959

Your work looks very good.  I agree that NEO's wheels needed fixing, I too would've narrowed the F&R tracks (shortened the axles ) but I would've simply made those whitewalls much smaller (which I've done on several other models - see '58 Chevy pic ).  I think NEO's tires are about right, but those whitewalls are too large for '59.

For all your efforts to obtain a more "fifties"  look,  I'm surprised you went with "modern tires"  - whitewalls seen on 1960's cars.    I know '59 Mercs. used black rims (many were not color-keyed to the body ).   Is that the look you were going for?    But rim detail is molded into the wheelcover.  

Also, NEO's gold is a factory color, but your blue & white looks pretty sharp too!    

Lasty, I assume "varnish"  means "gloss coat,"  correct?        NICE JOB!    I always love to see PROJECT PICS!  😎 😀 😎 

Wow....very impressive!  I love your choice of colors.

@chris 

Thank you for your feedback. Regarding the size of the white walls,you are right and i can still make the change...But for now, i am going to rest a bit...! 

Very nice, much improved. I have this model-never really cared for it.

Love the work done to the model. Also Chris' remarks. I have the NEO in blue in my collection and like it a lot.

Nice work. I assume you removed all the chrome trim pieces before painting. How easy was it to reattach them? Also, what did you use to remove paint?

@jcarnutz John; I think the metallic gold color was a poor choice for this model; especially given the vibrant alternatives used by Ford/Mercury in '59.  The gold may have looked just fine on the 1:1 car....not sure.

@ed-davis 

I don't know of any effective product for removing paint from resin without risking damage... so, i just rubbed the surfaces with sandpapers.

Indeed, reattaching the chrome trim pieces was particularly delicate.

For photo-etched parts, white glue (wood glue) works well because it gives you enough time to position the part precisely where you want it.But of course,it doesn't have the strength of super glue; personnaly, i've gotten into the habit of using super glue even though i'm aware of its destructive potential...So i go very slowly!!!

@ed-davis

@jack-dodds

Posted by: @domi7777

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"I don't know of any effective product for removing paint from resin without risking damage... so, I just rubbed the surfaces with sandpapers."

OMG!    NO!  😮 😮 😮 😲 😲    I'm shocked you used sandpaper AND your project turned out so nice.   YOU HAVE A LIGHT TOUCH!  😀 😀 😀 

NEXT TIME either paint over the existing color (I've completed dozens of projects without EVER removing old paint; I'll just scuff it up a bit for the primer )  

- OR -

Soak your model in automotive brake fluid.   It will NOT harm plastic, resin, etc.... but it will safely REMOVE paint.   Oven cleaner can also be used. 

Lastly, CA glue (Krazy glue ) is great - I use it for everything - but a steady hand is required, and of course it should NEVER be used near clear plastic.  White glue/wood glue is OK, but for photo-etched, or clear parts..... inexpensive but awesome Canopy glue should be used.  It's a strong bond, will never harm any surface, dries crystal clear, and cleans up with water.

In fact, just a few days ago I attached "Chevrolet"  scripts, using Canopy glue, on a custom fabricated '56 Chevy 150 2-dr sedan.     😎 😀 

@chris It looks SO much nicer with the contrasting secondary color.

@chris Thanks for reminder about using brake fluid. I now remember reading about that many years ago.

@domi7777 Excellent work! Very well done!

I'd like to recommend E6000 for a variety of adhering tasks. It is a little like working with rubber cement, but adhesion is very good.

Some of the benefits:

Readily available online, at craft stores, and at Home Depot/Lowes, etc.

You can get small tubes...the big tubes will go bad before you can use it all.

It is very viscous, so often you won't need to clamp or tape the part in place.

It has a generous working time to allow you to position the parts (but permanent when set).

If it gets someplace it is not supposed to be, you can just "roll it off" of the part like rubber cement.

If "rolling off" is unsuccessful, a Q-tip with a drop of mineral spirits will clean it right up (if it has not set).

It will not harm clear, painted, or chrome parts (I have never had a problem, but test it on your material first to be safe).

It is completely clear.

I have not used super glue for anything since I was told about E6000! Thanks again for sharing your work with us!