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Topic starter
31/05/2023 11:15 am
I couldn't find any information on this process. So, I hit up ChatGPT with the question, "How does the scalding silver sticker method work in applying silver trim to a model?" Here's what the answer was;
"The scalding silver sticker method is a technique used to apply silver trim or detailing to a scale model. It involves using heat to transfer a metallic layer from a specialized sticker or foil onto the model's surface. Here's a step-by-step overview of how the process typically works:
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Prepare the model: Ensure that the surface of the model is clean, smooth, and free from dust or oils. It's often recommended to apply a coat of gloss or clear varnish to create a smooth base for the silver trim.
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Acquire the silver stickers: Obtain silver trim stickers or foil designed specifically for model building. These stickers are typically made of a thin metallic layer with an adhesive backing.
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Cut the stickers: Use a sharp hobby knife or scissors to carefully cut the silver stickers into the desired shapes and sizes for the trim details you want to apply to the model.
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Apply the stickers: Peel off the adhesive backing from the sticker and place it onto the model's surface in the desired location. Press it down gently to ensure good contact and adhesion. Repeat this process for all the trim details you wish to add.
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Apply heat: This is the critical step that activates the adhesive and allows the metallic layer to transfer onto the model's surface. Different methods can be used to apply heat, such as using a heated tool like a stylus or a small soldering iron. The tip of the heated tool is carefully brought into contact with the silver sticker, which causes the metallic layer to melt and adhere to the model.
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Remove excess sticker: Once the metallic layer has transferred, gently peel off the remaining sticker material, leaving only the silver trim adhered to the model. Take care not to damage or scratch the applied trim during this process.
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Finishing touches: After the silver trim is applied, you may wish to add a protective clear coat or varnish to seal and protect the model's surface. This can help enhance the appearance and longevity of the silver trim.
It's important to note that the scalding silver sticker method requires practice and precision. It's recommended to experiment on a scrap piece of plastic or a less visible area of the model before applying it to the final project. Additionally, always follow the instructions provided with the specific silver trim stickers or foils you are using, as the exact process and materials may vary slightly."
John Kuvakas
Warrenton, VA
David Green and Ed Davis reacted
31/05/2023 11:50 am
Interesting. That's quite different to the "hot foil" method where a sheet of metallic foil is laid on the object to be decorated and a heated die of the required shape is pressed down on to it. Only the area of foil touched by the heated die is transferred to the object. But I think that only works on fairly flat objects.
I must say that based on this description of the process, it looks pretty complicated and fiddly, although I would assume it can be automated, and at least it looks as if the heated adhesive would give a permanent job, unlike the "cold" adhesive used to attach P/E trim (which as we all know can dry out and lose its grip). It also looks as if the trim piece can maybe be adjusted and repositioned before heat is applied, whereas when a piece of pre-glued P/E trim is applied it grabs instantly and adjustment is difficult without buckling or creasing the trim piece.
The bright foil should look much better than silver paint, although it would lack the three-dimensional quality of P/E brightwork. It almost looks like a fancy way of applying BMF on an industrial scale!
This post was modified 11 months ago by Graeme Ogg
Graeme.M. Ogg
London U.K.
31/05/2023 12:48 pm
The Scalding Silver Sticker process appears to be a lot of work with precision needed as addressed above. I can now understand why these little cars are getting expensive and I can now better understand what goes into making one of these models. Thanks John for looking into this.
John Kuvakas reacted
31/05/2023 12:51 pm
The ChatGPT answer seems to be much like the process of using bare metal foil except for the heat application steps. I am not sure what the purpose of this is as over many years of using BMF I have found once burnished on to the model it is quite permanent. In fact, a bit difficult after time to remove. Using BMF requires a very sharp Exacto knife and some sharp tweezers and finally some miniature Q tip sort of sticks to burnish it on fully. Lately, however I have been using a BIG THUMB Molotow chrome marker pen which is essentially a chrome pen but the brightness of this paint is quite exceptional and does replicate chrome quite well. It comes in tip sizes from 1 mm to 7 mm which is what I use.
This post was modified 11 months ago 2 times by John Quilter
John F. Quilter
Eugene, Oregon USA
31/05/2023 12:55 pm
Text and photos from the Stamp models facebook page:
"Why is the 1/18 model of Stamp not cheap? Because we use this scalding silver decal, it takes a very experienced staff to divide several steps to complete a decal paste work. They applied scalding silver decal soaked in water to the body of the car, then stretched it flat and heated it with a heat gun to wrap it around the protruding ridge. Then wipe it plying-up before finishing a piece of scalding silver decal paste work. A 1/18 1974 Cadillac Coupe Deville had 16 sheets of scalding silver decal to stick. It's going to take a lot of work. So the 1/18 ratio of Cadillac on Stamp will be relatively expensive.
A lot of people have mentioned that we use silver pad prints instead of Chrome lines on 1/43 products. But we are forced to do so. Compared to etchings that look shimmering, pad printing silver does look less glamorous. But when you take your model out three years later, the etchings bounce up instead of sticking to the body. This is something most players don't want to see. Because the scalding silver sticker is very thin and soft, if it is used on 1/43 model, such a thin scalding silver decal will easily break, thus unable to meet the needs of production."
31/05/2023 3:47 pm
@john-sharisky Thanks John and John. I googled for heat and heated and heat gun, but the STAMP link was the only one that came up. Maybe they are the only ones who use it for larger scale models, or other companies don't want to give away their secrets! 😯 😏
John Kuvakas reacted
31/05/2023 6:18 pm
It just occurred to me that I don't know if the 1/18 scale Stamp models are resin or metal.
If they're resin, I can tell you - from the perspective of building and collecting dozens of 1/24 and 1/25 scale resin kits - that one needs to be extremely careful with heat (even direct sunlight) and resin parts. When drying freshly painted resin parts in a dehydrator, I won't go above 90 degrees F on the temperature dial.
The 1:1 A-pillars on the 1971-1976 GM B,C, D and E bodies (plus the '77 and '78 Eldorado and Toronado) are extremely thin. Stamp seems to replicate this correctly in 1/18th (I never had one in my hands). If resin, the application of heat such as in the photo must be done sparingly.
Karl Schnelle and David Green reacted
31/05/2023 6:53 pm
I also wondered about the effect of heat on the resin. Looks like it works, but you really need to know what you are doing.
Ed Davis
Inverness, Illinois, USA
Karl Schnelle reacted
31/05/2023 6:58 pm
Thanks John, for the research and instructions. I tried but not successful in getting the info. I am sure it is great but too complicated for me. I think I will stick to bmf.
31/05/2023 11:26 pm
@john-sharisky Stamp models are resin. As a sub-brand to GLM, they seem to be only Cadillacs.
Karl Schnelle and John Kuvakas reacted