Dismantling a Danbu...
 
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Dismantling a Danbury Mint 1962 Thunderbird Sports Roadster Part 1

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(@pete-rovero)
Famed Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 1977
Topic starter  

I meant to post this on Forum 24, but somehow I screwed up!  Maybe one of the moderators can move it?  If not, oh well!!

John K posted a video of the 1962 Thunderbird assembly line in the Lounge earlier today, and it reminded me that a few weeks ago there were a few requests for me to show how I dismantle a diecast model for repaint.  Every model is slightly different, but this will serve as a good example, although a little more complex than most.

The Subject:

IMG 6735

The first thing I do is remove the rear bumper.  There is a hidden screw holding it in place behind the license plate.  Using an X-acto blade to remove the license plate to expose the screw.  After removing the screw, the bumper can be gently pryed off using a screw driver. This is the only diecast I’ve dismantled that has a screw holding the bumper in place.  Most just have locating pins that are glued in place.

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Removing the bumper exposes the two screws that attach the trunk lid to the body. Remove the trunk lid.

 

IMG 6740

Removing the body from the chassis:

There are 4 screws at each corner of the chassis, the rears are partially hidden by the rear mufflers.  Pry off the mufflers with a screw driver for access.  The front screws also hold the front bumper on.  On different models you may find the screws in the wheel wells or hidden under the mufflers.

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IMG 6744 LI
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The Tbird has two smaller screws behind the rear seat back that must be removed as well.

 

IMG 6746 LI

There’s one more step to remove the body.  The top of the back seat is glued to the body.  I use an X-acto or utility knife to break the bond of the glue and gently pry the seatback loose from the body.  Debonder cannot be used because it will damage the plastic the seat is made out of.

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IMG 6749

Now the body can be removed from the chassis, but first the doors must be open to clear the dash.  Some cars this is not an issue because the dash is attached to the body.  If that’s the case, the steering column is usually glued to the dash so it must be separated from the dash.  I use a small flat blade screwdriver to do that.

IMG 6750

Removing the hood, doors, and windshield are pretty straight forward. You can see the corresponding screws that hold them in place.

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Carefully pry off the interior quarter panel trim with a screwdriver and the door sill plate with a utility knife

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Now for the exterior trim removal.  Large solid pieces and be removed with a blade.  The more delicate pieces require super glue debonder to avoid breaking the parts.

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Removing the Thunderbird emblem is a little tricky.  I use an e-xacto blade and carefully pry around it, making sure my thumb or a piece of tape is holding one side of it so it doesn’t go flying into infinity and beyond, never to be seen again.  I don't use debonder because I'm not sure if will harm the turquoise paint on the emblem. I do the same thing for the trunk lid emblem. 

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The trunk flipper panel is held on by black plastic hinges that are riveted to the trunk.  I remove the head of the rivets with a drill bit and then gently pry the hinges from the trunk.

The metal trunk hinge need not be removed.

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To remove the delicate trim pieces on the body,  I use the debonder pictured below.

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It may require multiple applications to soften the glue to remove the trim pieces.

Removing the antenna.  I put debonder on top and bottom.  The same with the windshield wipers.  In order to avoid breaking the wipers, I use a sturdy pin to push the wipers out from the bottom. There is usually an access hole to get to the back of them.

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The body trim is a bit tricky.  I use debonder on both sides of the molding, using multiple applications.  They are glued in place, but there are three small locating pins on each molding that help position them during assembly. I use my thumb nail and run it along boths sides of the moldings, or an X-acto knife, to loosen them and...

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...eventually, success! 

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Dismantling the door begins with removing the door panel.  Most I’ve done are pretty easy.  A small screwdriver between the door and door panel and they pop right off.  I don’t know what type of glue the factory used on these TBirds, but the door panels are very uncooperative.  The left side was fairly easy and the panel popped off with a little coaxing...

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...but the right door was another story, and what I usually face trying to remove the door panels on these Thunderbirds.  I use screwdrivers to pry the panels away from the door, and then use a hack saw blade to cut the plastic tabs that are glued to the door.

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The vent window chrome will pop right off, they’re not glued and are held in place by the door panel.

Next, removing the door button and door lock:

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The best way I found to remove the door button and door lock is to drill small holes from the back side of the door in line with the buttons being careful not to drill thru the buttons themselves. 

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Then, using a small pin, push the buttons out.  It helps to use tape over the buttons to keep them from disappearing in the process.

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Here’s the desired outcome:

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The tonneau cover is easy to take apart. Just slowly remove the plastic headrests with your fingers.  If there’s some resistance, use the x-acto blade to cut them free.

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The panel attached to the convertible top can be removed with a utility knife to the break the bond of the glue.  Just be careful not to cut the top material.

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This top is fully disassembled because the top will be painted white.

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Here is the fully disassembled Sports Roadster ready for stripping.

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The fan shroud must be removed from the body because it’s plastic and will be destroyed by the paint stripper

Body and parts after stripping:

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I'll do another installment of dismantling the chassis in a few days.  This takes a bit of time to put together!!

 

 

 

 

 

 



   
Galen55, Frank Kocour, Ralf and 13 people reacted
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john barry
(@john-barry)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 11084
 

thanks Pete.....I know this was a massively time consuming effort   tutorials as well thought out and comprehensive as yours are "worth their weight"......as I sure many others will do,I`m going to screen-grab all of this for a safekeeping copy



   
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John Kuvakas
(@jkuvakas)
Illustrious Member Admin
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 9605
 

Wow! Excellent post, rich with detailed information. Thanks!

 


John Kuvakas
Warrenton, VA


   
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(@bob-jackman)
Illustrious Member
Joined: 29 years ago
Posts: 15004
 

Absolutely fantastic Pete. As JB said this had to be a very time consuming project to put together. Thanks.



   
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David H
(@d-m-holcombe)
Trusted Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 2115
 

Pete, every now and then, I write and show pictures of building a model car;  but my scale is 1:43.   There's almost NO comparison in complexity.  You're a man of details, and I'm admiring you for it.  Well done!     David H



   
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Frank Kocour
(@kocour)
Noble Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 911
 

VERY interesting!  I've often wondered how models come apart and now I see that it is even more difficult than I imagined.   And when I see that you had to destroy some portions during the removal process I realize that fabricating is also necessary in some instances.

Looking forward to the next instalment and I hope you continue with the entire process - including the reconstruction.

Thank you for taking the time to do this excellent presentation.



   
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(@pete-rovero)
Famed Member
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 1977
Topic starter  

Thanks for your interest in the process!  I noticed that I posted the same picture twice for the back seat removal.  This should have been the first one:

IMG 6748

Chassis and interior deconstruction coming soon...



   
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(@Anonymous 197205242)
Joined: 5 years ago
Posts: 5402
 

A terrific, informative post and great info !



   
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