The Diecast Zone · Model Car Club Since 1994
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No, I'm not on the warpath. I did find an interesting palette with War Paint's Air series, though it appears they are meant for gaming figures, they have colors I want to use for the model cars I am going to construct. I do like the colors on offer and they are more 'dynamic' in some instances, compared to Tamiya paints. Some samples, though not all of them will be used:
And, on the topic of painting, is it necessary to put a base coat on a new resin model? I'm hoping to avoid a build-up of layers and it has been sixty years since I painted resin models.
"....on the topic of painting, is it necessary to put a base coat on a new resin model?"
Depending on the color, darks are usually not a problem, but lighter hues could be. Make DAMN sure, though, that ANY base coat is 100% compatible with your color coat. Obviously, you want to avoid any "bleeding."
Also, thoroughly wash resin parts before ANY paint!
Good luck, have fun, post pics! 👍 👍 🤓
@chris These Army paints come in Base, Mid, and High, and I would be using a strong first color. I'm not one to miss an opportunity to go off the path, when it comes to color, and the more vibrant - when coupled with Gloss Black - the better. I would use colors such as their brass and copper ranges for detailing motors, which brings me to another question. If I wanted to 'copper' the chrome parts of a model is the process different from painting the primary body parts, since there is a top coating of 'chrome' on those plastic parts? Yeah, I kind of have an airbrush adrenaline thing going on.
"If I wanted to 'copper' the chrome parts of a model is the process different from painting the primary body parts, since there is a top coating of 'chrome' on those plastic parts?"
Usually, when painting chrome - because paint doesn't necessarily adhere well to it - very light coats of transparent colors, in this case COPPER, would be the recommended procedure. Any thick coats of opaque hues probably wouldn't work out so well.
But of course, all CHROME plating and all PAINTS are not equal. I know you're experienced but I would, nonetheless, try some "test applications" first on pieces cut from the chrome part's tree.
Have fun! 👍 🤓
@chris I did win the Delage D8 SS so it will be my 'practice' model and the idea of copper instead of chrome might work, with either two shades of green (dark and light) or two shades of purple (Royal purple and Coven purple).
I had a look at the body parts (sales pics) and the body of the model is in two pieces and as inexperienced as I am I don't think it would be wise for me to begin chopping it up, making the overall body much weaker. I have to remember my limitations; arthritis, and the propensity with which my hands seem to suddenly move without any prompting from their owner.
By the way, is there a way to 'texturize' the softtop on a DHC resin model? I have a couple of thoughts, but I am curious if anyone else has attempted to do this.
"Is there a way to 'texturize' the soft-top on a DHC resin model?"
The simplest way would be to apply "wide" masking tap. Cut your pieces (usually three ) to precisely follow the seams that are molded in the plastic. You can elect to either file those seams flush or simply cover them with tape - but if you overlap your tape, that will also create seams.
Then paint with flat, or wide tip marker. Practice first to avoid streaking.
Crinkle finish paints are available, but...... crinkles rarely appear "in scale." Countless masking tape manufactures offer unlimited "micro textures & patterns."
@chris RE the 'micro textures' zip over here and I haven't found any on .com, either.
I'm not looking to create seams, as the tops already have those. I'm in search of a method to bring a cloth/leather top more realism, against the gloss of the model's body and trim. I can go flat black, but I still feel there is a need for some sort of texture.
Hmmmm...I may have a solution. A small, terrycloth towel placed over the top, a few minutes after painting, gently tap, remove, and hope.
@gdh No, no.... I think perhaps you misunderstood me. To make any padded roof in scale, it's common to use masking tape - just as you're using a terrycloth towel - then paint the tape.
"Micro texture" was my way of saying that ALL masking tape is not created equally. When viewed under magnification, different, every day, household masking tape will provide different "micro textures."
@chris Okay, I haven't taken my meds, yet, but I feel like I'm back a couple of miles. Why would I paint the tape if I was just going to pat the fresh paint with it and not fasten it to the resin top?
Why would I paint the tape if I was just going to pat the fresh paint with it and not fasten it to the resin top?
..... you're right, we're miles apart. 🙄 😯 😲
You stick the tape on the roof of your resin model, trim it to fit and the masking tape becomes your scale padded top - with texture. THEN..... you paint your "new top" black, white, dark blue, whatever color you want.
@chris Now, I understand why we are kilometers apart. The masking tape I have has a smooth back, which would provide no texture at all. I'll have to go to the DIY to see what is available with the 'gritty' texture.









