@chrisSooner or later, all those liquid solvents and cements evaporate, my enamels and acrylics separate and/or clot, the brushes lose their integrity and you run out of shim metal and various gauges of sheet plastic, lead foil and all the other expendables and perishables.... and then you hit the hobby store and for a C-note, you replace most of what you'll need. I just started to go through my supplies and have already thrown out about $50 worth of paints and I haven't begun to finish yet.
After HOURS (😣 😫 😣) of trial & error I had an epiphany..."just pirate some dog-legs from a junker and use the COE dashboard screw holes as pivot points."That worked!
Great idea !! One small hinge for model fabrication....one GIANT step for re-purposement
If you have any little folk with advanced fabrication skills,you might let them have the run of your assembly table for an overnight session or two.......sort of a twist on the ol` Elves and Shoemaker process
@chrisSooner or later, all those liquid solvents and cements evaporate, my enamels and acrylics separate and/or clot, the brushes lose their integrity and you run out of shim metal and various gauges of sheet plastic, lead foil and all the other expendables and perishables.... and then you hit the hobby store and for a C-note, you replace most of what you'll need. I just started to go through my supplies and have already thrown out about $50 worth of paints and I haven't begun to finish yet.
Once again Rich, I agree completely. Nothing lasts forever! Like you, I've purged "rotten" supplies and it breaks my heart! 😫 😫 😫
Two quick points:
1) 99.8% of the time I use CA glue (Krazy glue that I buy in bulk at the Dollar store) which, if stored in an airtight container after each use, will never dry out. I use them until the tubes are empty.
2) I use mostly acrylics that can always be thinned with water. I don't think I've ever thrown out a bottle I couldn't salvage (unlike enamels which do have a self-life).
After HOURS (😣 😫 😣) of trial & error I had an epiphany..."just pirate some dog-legs from a junker and use the COE dashboard screw holes as pivot points."That worked!
Great idea !! One small hinge for model fabrication....one GIANT step for re-purposement
If you have any little folk with advanced fabrication skills,you might let them have the run of your assembly table for an overnight session or two.......sort of a twist on the ol` Elves and Shoemaker process
"...one Giant step...." Too funny! I too have "many" little folk but collectively.... They're a lazy lot!
About 5 years ago I began a second 1/18 4-car hauler project. I built both a rolling trailer AND a 1956 Ford COE. My trailer was scaled out perfectly, my COE was not. Fixing this oversight required practically a complete re-build. The hood would need total re-shaping, while the fenders would have to be cut off, narrowed, then re-attached (along with the front I-beam axle...to narrow the wheel track).
Realizing ALL the work involved, the big COE project was shelved. About 3 weeks ago I "re-started." ALL that work is now complete. Still much to do before paint (HA!).
What follows are project pics that span 5 years:
I never saw a hardtop Mercury... Is that a custom ?
Still filling, shaping, sanding, and "repeating." (lots of repeating!). I had to more-or-less re-build/re-shape the hood, "mouth trim," side "wings," and nose profile. Once I was satisfied with the hood (more-or-less) and the general shape of the fenders I added "lip-trim" to the RF. To "see" just how things are shaping up I shot a light coat of primer.
STILL FAR, FAR away from "finish primer." Much more tedious body work ahead. Just like 1:1 cars...it's all LABOR! 😣 😣 😣
@chrisI'll use Ca only when I don't have to worry about the fog when setting. I have more glues, adhesives and welding solvents for a myriad of purposes and CA is just part of the armamentarium..
@marty-johnson Good question Marty, the answer is "no heat."
Any heat would instantly melt these oh-so-thin plastic strips. I simply "ruff up" the fender arch for good adhesion (as seen in my pics) then I apply Krazy Glue at one end, follow my template, and "glue as I go." The plastic is thin & pliable enough that it will, mostimportantly, remain flat and bend easily without breakage. I could probably make a small, perfect circle without issue.
