Somewhere on TDZ I read about E6000 and another glue, but I only made a note of the E6000. Now that I have tried the E6000+ I noticed my glued parts seem to wobble, indicating it is a flexible glue and probably not the best option for permanently securing parts. I used it to reattach the travel boot on the back of the FM 1929 Rolls Royce. I should have made a screensave of the page while I was on it. Any assistance will be appreciated.
"I noticed my glued parts seem to wobble...."
That's the WORST word to use when describing any glue. Speaking parenthetically, "wobble" means all your efforts were wasted, nothing was really accomplished. 😣
I use CA glue (Krazy glue ) for almost all repairs, however, a steady hand is required AND CA glue can NEVER be used on clear parts OR where there's a chance "excess" will be seen.
The safest & strongest adhesion can be accomplished with Canopy glue (on the right). It will bond anything, dries crystal clear, will never damage clear plastic parts NOR any paint finish, can be applied with the tip of a toothpick - or smaller, and can easily be scrapped away SHOULD any "excess" show AFTER your repair.
Furthermore, water clean-up is a plus AND it retails for less than $6.00
😀 😀 😀
@chris Thank you! And, just so you know your effort wasn't wasted I did take a screenshot of your post. I've learned my lesson.
@chris Before I attempt to remove the travel boot from the 1929 RR, any suggestions as to the safest means of accomplishing this task with a minimum of damage? I will use one of my very sharp detailing scalpels and not the chain saw.
@chris I just ordered the glue on Amazon.de and you can place a 1 in front of the cost, over here. 16 euros and change, but it comes with free shipping and I only have to wait five days.
@gdh I assume you're referring to a 1/43 1929 Rolls Royce convertible top boot, correct?
For the record, I "chop up," repair, augment, and fabricate in all scales.
Most often, smaller scales rely on glue (not screws ) to hold part together. Tiny "mcro" screwdrivers make great pry-bars. X-acto-blades are a BAD idea; they will BREAK! 😬
One of the best methods for removing tiny parts requires a length of Dental Floss (DF ). With back & forth motion, slide your DF between or underneath your part(s ) then pull up swiftly - with pressure. You'll be amazed at how well this works MOST of the time.
....and DF will NEVER harm painted surfaces or leave "pry" marks (scratches ). AND ALWAYS TAKE YOUR TIME - NO ONE cares how FAST you are NOR how LONG it took.
Good luck, have fun! 😀 😀
@gdh A 1/24 replica could defiantly have screws and/or glue. I'd bet it has "boot" screws; therefore, total disassembly would be needed to access them - assuming it's a diecast model. Resin replicas would most likely utilize just glue.
@chris I had to smile when I remembered 'boot' means something different depending on a person's location on our planet. My use of it in that statement was in reference to a 'trunk' at the rear of the car, either attached, or built-in. Sorry about that.
@chris I thought you might like an update re the '29 RR PH I boot. I used the Canopy Glue and it seemed fine, until a day later, when I noticed the boot was lying on the shelf. I spent some time removing the glue from the model and the connections on the boot, and the glue doesn't seem strong enough for the very limited contact the model and part have available. So, yesterday, after attaching the chrome strip on the Esval '34 Hispano-Suiza, and the trim on the Esval '38 Delage L & M Cabrio, as well as the hood ornament for the Matrix Hispano-Suiza Franay Shooting Brake (all three with Canopy Glue), I pulled out the heavy artillery for the '29 RR PH I - SuperGlue. So, far, it seems to be holding well. There was too much stress on the repair, with the weight of the boot and limited contact between the model and the boot, so a stronger adhesive was needed. The area is not visible to the human eye at a glance and I think it did the trick. Time is the arbiter of such things, so we shall see. Thanks for your guidance with this issue.
